London’s four-day sartorial parade powered its eight instalment. And once again the men’s collection stamped our capital firmly onto the global fashion map. In typical British A/W winter fashion, this season’s collection featured heavy, chunky and rather conservative pieces. Whilst, as Burberry showed, the athletic leisurewear trend is here to stay.
Accompanying Topman’s A/W range was a performance by poetry legend John Cooper Clarke. And rather fittingly the collection was as moody as the weather of Clarke’s hometown of Lancashire. Boots were military, chunky and heavy whilst almost all knitwear were high rollneck jumpers. Colours remained conservative with a very monochrome palette, whilst splashes of blood red and hints of blues injected a bit of life into this rather dark collection.
Athletic leisurewear was key to Burberry’s collection. Tracksuit tops and tracksuit top-inspired pieces were layered underneath fur or pea coats. In typical British winter-dressing there was a plethora of classically-cut coats in plaid and dogstooth, knits, tweeds and checked jackets. And both the high celebrity turn out, including Mark Ronson, and the live musical performance from Benjamin Clementine, made Burberry’s show one of the most talked about, once more.
L-R: Topman Design Fall 16, Burberry Fall 16
In typical Jeremy Scott style, the Moschino collection was bold, colourful and essentially fashion marmite once again. His collaboration with artists Gilbert and George was evident as the clothes were drenched in pop art aesthetics: block colours, slogans and exaggerated drawn on creases. The luminous hair that the models rocked added further vitality to Scott’s already impressive palette of visuals.
Set in the surrounds of the foreign office, Sarah Burton’s collection was astutely military-inspired. Models strutted in frock coats, baggy trousers and laced-up boots with chunky soles. Juxtaposed against these rugged pieces were embroidered butterflies and floral patterns, all of which added a ‘feminine’ and elegant charm.
L-R: Moschino Fall 16, Alexander McQueen Fall 16
In one of the most definitive moments of this season, Jonathan Anderson, hot off his double BFA wins, unveiled his latest collection on Grindr in dedication to the gay community, and allowed the full show to stream on the gay dating app. Candy pinks, full length-duvet jackets and playful snails and cartoon cat motifs stood out as remainders of Anderson’s playful nature. Printed sweatshirts and wearable knits also provided an element of wearability for a brand which has a reputation for making clothes that can be rather difficult to pull off.
For Paul Smith’s collection, it was the set-design rather than the clothes that stole the show. Inspired by his first store in Nottingham, this 3×3 metres runway was packed with trinkets, books and the odd accordion. The clothes were very limited in variety, most of which were mainly based on old colourful cycling jerseys, yet it is undoubted that Smith has more up his sleeve for Paris.
L-R: J.W.Anderson Fall 16, Paul Smith Fall 16
The opening piece of Coach’s show – an oversized shearling coat – set the tone for its heavy outerwear collection. Sibling displayed knits of the highest technical quality. And whilst both Hardy Amies and Gieves and Hawkes opted to incorporate crewnecks, at Kilgour it was all about the return of the turtleneck.
L-R: Coach 1941, Sibling, Hardy Amies, Gieves and Hawkes, Kilgour
Ones to watch
L-R: Grace Wales Bonner; Charles Jeffrey, Nasir Mazhar
It is clear from the four days in Milan that the consumer once again has the power. Plenty of wearable and desired pieces, in the forms of pea coats and close-cute tailoring, were displayed in the Italian capital, and yet again the home of fashion did not disappoint.
Labelled as ‘haute couture for men’, the Zegna collection was overwhelmingly wearable and classic, as per usual. Elegant coats and tapered trousers were the key pieces of the collection, whilst quilted bombers proved the casual contrast to the formalwear. The desirability of the collection shouldn’t come as a surprise though, as creative director Stefano Pilato is high amongst the ranks of the most stylish men in the industry.
Moving slightly away from the sports-inspired loungewear, Tomas Maier aimed to ‘created a line that’s very long and lean, with everything elegant and elevated’. Undoubtedly Maier executed his vision to perfection by dressing his models in double-breasted suits with clinched torsos, thick boucle wool overcoats and striped wide legged trousers in military blood. Lean indeed.
In typically Donatella style, the Versace collection had a certain element of sex appeal. Set underneath a gigantic digital display, the Versace models donned fitted woolly tracksuit bottoms draped over chunky high-tops, all of which contrasted against the more formal slim cut suits and draping wool overcoats. A palette of diluted lilacs and steels blues was sprinkled over this casual-formal collection, whilst tight cycling tees and ass-tight jeans injected a 90s spirit.
L-R: Ermenegildo Zegna Fall 16, Bottega Veneta Fall 16, Versace Fall 16, Versace Fall 16
Dolce and Gabbana
Although their women’s S/S ’16 collection paid pure homage to their motherland, Dolce and Gabbana went for a hybrid approach to this collection with a Wild West-meets-Sicily theme. Whilst the Spaghetti Western tunes and cacti and desert set provided a cowboy backdrop, the classic black tailoring gave the show a more Mediterranean feel. But with silver pistols, denim jackets and silky horseshoe printed shirts, one couldn’t help feel that the Wild West was the more dominant theme. The monochrome silk pyjamas proved to be the anomaly of the collection, but who really cares for they will undoubtedly be at the top of any buyer’s wish list.
Unlike D&G, Prada’s set looked back towards a time of culture and refinement, with the set evoking strong similarities to the interior of the Globe Theatre. Nautical seemed to be the overbearing theme in this season’s Prada collection, with cropped trousers and sailor hats and shipmaster keys dangling from belts. However, if one looks past the gimmicks there was quite an assortment of wearable pieces, from slim and short navy pea coats to the Prince of Wales checked shirt jackets. Miuccia’s collaboration with artist Christophe Chemine was made clear when models wore prints bearing historical drawings of unicorns and Greek gods. It was quite a mash-up of themes and periods, but we were down with it, nonetheless.
L-R: Dolce & Gabbana Fall 16, Prada Fall 16
In classic Giorgio Armani fashion, navy was the central colour in the form of knits and shirts as well as structured tailored suit wear. Alessandro Michele went geek chic for Gucci, with large thick-rimmed glasses and standout knits. For his first Roberto Cavalli menswear show, Peter Dundas stuck to the DNA of the Cavalli house by exhibiting themes of ageing rocker through snakeskin patterns and leopard prints. Internet celebrity Cameron Dallas stole the show and thousands of Instagram likes, as he appeared before a crowd of screaming teenage girls at Calvin Klein – the appearance of Gemma Ward basically went unnoticed.
L-R: Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Roberto Cavalli, Calvin Klein
Ones to watch
L-R: Iceberg; Dsquared2; Fendi
All Images: Vogue Runway