With NYFW coming to a close and the LFW invites dropping through the letter boxes of all the usual suspects (from bloggers to celebs), revealed in all their glory (yes I’m talking about the Ashish sequinned delights that have been gracing Instagram), the fortnight has bought an exciting range of fashion news; from who is wearing what, to new collections to business model revivals, there has been a lot to report as of late.
Yeezy Season 3
Yeezy 3 made its heavily anticipated debut at the iconic Madison Square Gardens, and for those that couldn’t quite bag a $160 ticket, it was being screened at cinemas around the world and online, pulling in 20 million viewers. Unsurprisingly, the collection was awash with the usual muted, neutral tones but there was a notable injection of a more vibrant orange tone to Yeezy 3 than previously. There were nods to the military and a clear emphasis on departing from the ‘posed’ norm of catwalk shows. A list of conditions and rules for the models was leaked on Instagram detailing the do’s and don’ts of modelling for Kanye’s newest instalment. With an unrivalled audience comprising of the complete Kardashian clan (clad head to toe in exclusive Yeezy x Balmain pieces), the Hadid sisters, Anna Wintour and music mavericks Jay Z and A$AP Rocky it was hard to focus solely on the looks. The beauty side of things was understated and minimal, with most models wearing skullcaps, allowing the bold silhouettes and West’s signature colour palette to speak for itself.
The show was the perfect opportunity for Kanye to release his The Life of Pablo album (yes we lost track of the album title too). The memorable lyric ‘I love you like Kanye loves Kanye’ humorous and in many ways showed a light-hearted side to West, although coupled with recent tweets where West has praised his musical prowess and influence suggest that the star is embracing his cockiness.
‘Nothing more inspiring than a man living his dreams. Sky is the limit’ (Olivier Rousteing)
The days of waiting for collections to be available for purchase online and in store 6 months after the catwalk shows are becoming a thing of the past. The fashion show model has been revived and modernised to suit clients’ desires and a ever-growing need to be current and accessible, with brands such as Burberry and Tom Ford choosing to adopt the see-now-buy-now model. Donatella spoke out in favour of this change saying, “Right now in fashion, the future is all anyone can talk about. The internet and social media have changed everything. The old systems are collapsing. For many people, they find it terrifying.”
Nine of the best known fashion houses have sought the opportunity to embrace the new fashion show model by showing a selection of items in the show that are available for purchase immediately. Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfriger, Vetements, Tom Ford, Burberry, Thakoon, Rebecca Minkoff, Hunter and Matthew Williamson are amongst the crowd bridging the gap between the collections and their accessibility.
Stefano Pilati Steps Down
Stefano Pilati has stepped down from his creative director role at Ermenegildo Zegna, effective immediately. Known for his eight-years at the helm of YSL from 2004-2012, Pilati started his career at some of Italy’s finest design houses. His resume includes roles at Mui Mui, Giorgio Armani and Prada. Pilati has made no comments about his next venture.
“I have given much consideration to this decision and after thoughtful conversations with Gildo Zegna, we have reached the conclusion that the mission he entrusted me with had been fulfilled” (Stefano Pilati)
Alexa Chung for M&S
She’s one of the most coveted fashion icons and inspirations of our generation, and the new collaboration with M&S, launching in April, is not likely to disappoint. Last year Chung was photographed in a camel suede M&S skirt, and this item sold out, showing her influence over the buying habits of females. There are no previews as of yet but within the 31 ready-to-wear items there will undoubtedly be a homage to the crisp shirts, animal print and fitted thigh grazing tailored shorts that Alexa is known for sporting.
The classic symbol of the British high street meets the ‘IT’ girl of easy-to-wear style. Alexa’s previous collaborations have been resounding successes. Chung’s collection with AG jeans is centred on providing the missing pieces for her ‘dream denim wardrobe’. From wearable pinafores to versatile overalls, the collection nails chuck-on-and-go dressing, making those early mornings all the more bearable. Mulberry’s Alexa gained must-have status following its launch in 2009 and became a best seller for the brand.
Stella McCartney’s Rumoured Menswear Line
According to WWD the London-based designer, known for her tailoring, is said to be launching her first menswear collection for spring/summer 2017 in June. McCartney is no stranger to menswear and spent the early days of her career at Saville Row working for Edward Sexton, her father’s tailor. The brand has not given comment or further details on the collection but there is no doubt that McCartney will take to this alleged expansion with creative flair. It will provide another string to her already plentiful bow.
For the first time ever Sports Illustrated are running a trio of covers for their swimsuit edition, all displaying a different body shape and size. The stars gracing the sought after cover are Ashley Graham, Ronda Rousey and Hailey Clouson. This marks a huge moment in Sports Illustrated history and shows a movement away from this ‘ideal’ body image and an appreciation for a spectrum of body types.
“I thought Sports Illustrated was taking a risk by putting a girl my size in the pages, but putting me on the cover? They aren’t just breaking barriers; they are the standard now. This is beyond epic.” (Ashley Graham)
Gucci Resort 2017 at Westminster Abbey
On June 2, for the first time ever, the historic London church will host a fashion show after Gucci announced at it as their choice of venue for the pre-spring summer collection. The Italian fashion house released a statement declaring, “Gucci will be the first fashion house to host a runway show in this historic location.” The beautiful venue; also where Prince William and Duchess of Cambridge were married, has been chosen by Italian designer Alessandro Michele after he won the International Designer Award at this years British Fashion Awards.
A Glance into NYFW:
Carolina Herrera – Upper East Side decadence
Jeremy Scott – colour amped up – where some designers took on the ‘less is more’ mantra, Jeremy Scott created the very antipode.
Libertine – rebellious protest style with a focus on the peace movement and a recurrent pun on lib for live #onelifetolib
Victoria Beckham – “This collection is really about the evolution of my personal style” (Victoria Beckham)
Zac Posen – elegant, sleek and classic
*Follow @Gryph_ON on Twitter now to keep up-to-date with all the latest from NYFW!*
As the celebrities took to the red carpet, we waited with baited breath to see what (and who) they were wearing. Here is a round up of five looks that had an impact.
Best of the Golden Globes:
L-R: Lily James in Marchesa, Kate Winslet in classic navy Ralph Lauren, Rooney Mara in a stunning lace Alexander McQueen gown, Rosie Huntington Whiteley in Atelier Versace and Leonardo DiCaprio in a Giorgio Armani suit
Best of the Grammys:
Images: Vogue, Elle