The time came around once again for New York to host the biggest names and the designers to watch this season. The past week we saw a rapper turned designer causing pandemonium on and off the catwalk, a pop star designing, another modelling and an endless stream of streetwear in every form and colour possible. Here is our coverage on all things NYFW AW16…
Fashions Finest – What the world’s famous had to offer
It seems fitting that opening our coverage is Kanye West’s very own Yeezy 3. The rapper caused mayhem at Madison Square Gardens with his format allowing a massive crowd of 18,000 people; not just critics and the Kardashian clan but a plethora of lucky fans got to hear his new album The Life of Pablo and see his collection of hotly anticipated clothing. The outspoken star clothed his sombre looking models in a sea of neutral colours, but this time with injections of orange and yellow. Sticking to his known aesthetics of athleisure, we saw t-shirt layering aplenty, bodysuits, shearling lined coats and distressed knits as West aimed to lead fashions newly changing concept of a traditional show making it a spectacle consumer led. Another designer averting from the conventional catwalk process was Diane Von Furstenberg who made certain pieces from her collection available on a “see now buy now” method. A disco party full of dancing supermodels saw the wrap dress get a sequinned makeover whilst the more accessible slip dresses, blouses and printed jumpsuits were perfect for chic daywear.
Rebellious in church, Alexander Wang juxtaposed his setting with a subversive collection. Whilst he feminised his usual streetwear approach by including tweed monochrome suits and a pink striped gown, he maintained the edginess he’s renowned for (and distanced himself from his last all-white Balenziaga campaign) with the leather skirts, metal hardware and studded shoes. Adhering to the youthful, contemporary market, slogans reading “strict” and “tender” were printed across sheer tees. It was perhaps the marijuana motifs on mohair coats and the shorter hemlines that made the collection defiantly wicked. Baseball jackets were at the forefront at a youthful Coach collection from Stuart Vevers who has managed to make the clothing at the brand just as commercial as the handbags. With pretty butterfly adorned dresses and flirty skirts underneath, as well as pea coats, bear-like coats and metallic boots Ververs pulled off his fun Americana vision creatively. McCollough and Hernandez distorted silhouettes at Proenza Schouler as they showed a “control and release” inspired show. Up top there were loosely structured tied jackets, laced bodices and figure hugging, long knit dresses whilst at the bottom sat comfortable slouchy trousers and peplum skirts. A patchwork fur coat and boots with metal toe caps were also a strong talking point. One of our favourite collections from the week surprisingly came from Ralph Lauren. Beginning with beige cashmere, tweed and masculine cuts and ending with dazzling skirts that looked like liquid gold, it was the wearability and timeless feel that captured our hearts.
In what was our favourite collection from her thus far, Victoria Beckham showcased her talents in a highly sophisticated and confident collection. Bringing corsets back, she managed to create sexy bodices fit for the hourglass figure or to create a curvier one. The low ballooning skirts demonstrated her subtle attempt at bigger volumes whilst the long hems cohered with the elegant finesse we connect to her. For outerwear she offered printed coats in masculine cuts covered in stripes and checks whilst towards the bottom lay lust-worthy buckled flats. Models sailed through a Tommy Hilfiger nautical inspired show. Expectedly, anchor and wheel motifs adorned dresses as well as bow-tie necks and subtle stripes. Trench coats and military outerwear were added and an on trend silk pyjama-esque outfit was also seen, meanwhile Hilfiger chose to controversially combine ‘the marmite look’ of sandals and frilly socks. A collection that could’ve easily sunk as a parody actually managed to keep afloat. It was all about “the interesting mix” for Michael Kors at an underwhelming A/W show. Hence why we saw a combination of textures and colours. Not only was there a bright lime coat, fur stoles and what looked like Willy Wonka inspired shades there was also sparkling silver sequinned party dresses, peter pan collars, feathers galore and some chic sweats.
In an ultra feminine collection from Carolina Herrera she emphasised her admiration for technology and the future. Textures were manipulated with 3D embroideries, styling modernly controlled with heavy fur paired with light organza and georgette, necklines played with from a sexy V neck to a conservative crew neck. A light colour palette and fluidity ran throughout the collection, which was not only ethereal but incredibly modern too. There was an outstandingly seductive tone to the Reem Acra show “The Secret World of the Femme Fatale” which was inspired by “glamour from the past with a modern New York twist”. Perhaps overloaded, Acra incorporated embellished bodices, lace adorned lingerie inspired dresses and lashings of fringe. Whilst the notes no doubt proven and cuts undoubtedly mysteriously provocative, the collection for us wasn’t as refined as anticipated. The Mulleavy sisters continue to wow us with their latest presentation at Rodarte where there was a clear gothic undertone. Whilst dark and moody was the message, hints of romanticism swept in. Ruffles and frills, lace and mesh, leather and beads all to create their subtle nod to the art nouveau. The details were incredibly thought out from the hauntingly flawless makeup to the gorgeous floral accessories. An exemplary demonstration of how to be delicately fierce.
Inspired by the famous Battle of Versailles and taking references from his predecessor’s strong suits Copping decided on a modern collection at Oscar de la Renta. A recognised ladylike motive, but with modern craftsmanship and styling via the lace and corsets. A blue fur gilet on top of a brocade skirt and a gold suit targeted to the younger retailer, whilst the fit and flare bell skirts and awards ready taffeta gowns meant the collection was still loyal. A running aspect was the gold jacquard feature on ballgowns and skirts. Overall, pretty yet not too precious. Known for their elaborate dresses fit for a princess Marchesa took to Edwardian art for inspiration. Dramatic tulle walked down the runway adorned with 3D embroidery, feathers artistically placed and ruffles were cleverly structured. Not to overdo the extravagance the make up was left natural placing all attention on the gorgeous regal gowns. We can always rely on Marc Jacobs to end the week in sensational fashion. In a blank white room marched his models on sky-high platforms, sporting back lips and finger waved hair. It truly was theatricality without any gimmicks; the exaggeration came from the chessboard capes (and Lady Gaga) meanwhile the lace collars, pussy-bow blouses and oversized knitwear gave the collection its accessibility. The dark colour palette matched the eerie tone, as black velvet and feathers were seen as Jacobs proved how the gothic doesn’t have to be overplayed or repetitive.
Unsung Heroes – Let’s not forget
The curiosity of vampire film Only Lovers Left Alive was the concept behind Joseph Altuzarra’s AW collection.There was a mixture of everything from stunning sequinned gowns, luxe shearling jackets, scarf prints and fringe. Pinks were seen in every shade imaginable at Kate Spade NYC in a very ladylike collection from the American designer. Inspired by past female icons, the tailored trousers offered a more formal and masculine touch to an otherwise feminine collection filled with houndstooth coats and floral prints. Font illustrated his architectural roots as he created a Delpozo collection with amazing cuts and clever structures. Highlights had to be the gloves encrusted with 3D leather floral appliqué underneath the luxe coats, metallic embroidery and the pops of bold colour. Futuristic and dreamy!
Rihanna created a FentyXPuma capsule that made headlines. Oversized fur hoodies, tracksuits and bomber jackets all in a monochrome palette. The laced up dresses sexed up the collection whilst Japanese symbols even made an appearance. It was also the first glimpse at the new shoes; laced boots and high tongued trainers. The best pieces from Jason Wu arrived on Lineisy Montero in the form of a silk dress embroidered with feathers and the other the mohair coat with geometric lines. Pops of yellow also featured as did poppy prints in a conservative collection. Neutral earthy tones took over at The Row in soft tailoring with quality materials and minimalism at its best.
Images: Vogue Runway, AP/Press, Getty & Imaxtree