The Fashion Week Edit: PFW AW16

Bringing A/W ready-to-wear 2016/17 trends to a close, Paris fashion week could not possibly go unnoticed, with models such as Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner swapping hair colours and storming the catwalks and star studded fashion icons filling the front rows, social media coverage has been bigger than ever this season. We saw a growth in rising talents entering the catwalks as more and more new designers are being given the chance to glow in the city of lights – something that has been a challenge for young designers in the past. 

A social media steal

Olivier Rousteing, once again made his mark in Paris with his collection of famous super models showcasing his latest collection of pale pastels and monochrome for Balmain. Soft looking silks and suedes graced the runway in the form of mini skirts and over the knee boots. Rousteing stood his ground, persisting with his shapely designs seen through his corset tailoring and wide waist belts- a touch, said to be inspired explicitly by Kim Kardashian and her curvaceous figure. Meanwhile the love-or-hate collection flourishes in intricate beading and lace details, in contrast to some of the wide and boxy shoulder tailoring, making the collection appear hand crafted and ultra feminine nonetheless. Karl Lagerfield kept it classic and unfussy in comparison to his previous creativities in terms of catwalk production, whilst it was all very modest and simple, his star studded guests and celebrity models and arguably a fabulous collection meant that Chanel once again stole the media shining light this season. The accessories were a favourite as Lagerfield brings back the infamous, layered pearls, embellished riding boots, and somehow managed to make the boater hat look rather edgy. Simultaneously, vibrant colours such as fuchsia, finished with leather or denim detailing offered an interesting change to the tweed suit.

pfwImages: Monica Feudi – Over the knee boots, waist enhancing corsets and lace detailing at Balmain and Yannis Vlamos – leather trimmed boater hat and riding boots at Chanel

A New Wave

In her summary of PFW, Anna Wintour concluded with pride that she was ecstatic to finally see changes and a new movement for women’s fashion on the Paris runways, “there is now a new wave of french fashion designers, we haven’t seen here, a new generation of designers dressing a new generation of women”. Demma Gvsalia at Vetements and Balenciaga can be credited as one of fashion’s new inspirations, as his collections demonstrate a new and unique perception of fashion, hinting street style and bringing everyday, wearable pieces to the catwalk. At Vetements we saw more boxy shoulders on jackets and blazers and androgyny flowed throughout the collection, with oversized trouser suits in pinstripe and tartan. With more over the knee boots kicking down the catwalk, it seems they will be an essential come Autumn/ Winter 2016. Meanwhile, a glimmer of femininity was also seen in extremely wearable ruffle blouses and even more wearable hoodies printed with tongue in cheek slogans as it seemed Vetements are following a new era breaking boundaries of traditional catwalk fashion. Likewise, Gvsalia has worked wonders with silhouettes at Balenciaga with more ready-to-wear designs for the everyday modern woman; skirt suits, curved shoulders and cinched waists carry through blazers, midi dresses and trench coats. Whilst colbalt coloured puffer jackets, and aviator leather and denim injected a new wave of casual to the collection.

pfw2.2Images:Monica Feudi, Luca Tombolini – Vetements, Balenciaga

The trends to watch

Stella McCartney put on a spectacular show even if some of the animal logo prints seemed a bit garrish, she nevertheless, stuck to her roots and continued to embrace her ‘fashion without harming animals’ message. We saw more puffer jackets and quilting in this collection, as the pieces appeared slouchy and comfortable, skirts were long with metallic pleats and there was a large splash of velvet too. Other designers such as Sacai and Vivienne Westwood also supported this trend through their collections. Meanwhile, padded quilting -especially in jackets and fur accents were all the hype in Paris as seen at Acne Studios, and Lanvin. Leather is again making a comeback and is dominant in collections like Louis Vuitton,Valentino,  Saint Laurent and Hermes.

pfw2.3Images: Yannis Vlamos, Kim WestonArnold, Marcus Tondo- Stella McCartney, Sacai and Vivienne Westwood

pfw2.4Images: Photo: Kim WestonArnold – Acne Studios and Lanvin

pfw2.5Images: Kim Weston Arnold and Yannis Vlamos – Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent and Hermes

At Christian Dior there were pretty, floral print dresses floating in both neutral and bold colours and movement was the key concept for Chiuri and Piccoli at Valentino as they took inspiration from ballet with nude tulle dresses that gave a delicate feel whilst Chloe led a bohemian, tribal approach all three collections, dazzled on the runways embellished by embroidery and diamante detailing, drawing A/W ready to wear fashion week to a close in a luminous Paris.

pfw2.6Images:Kim Weston Arnold, Yannis Vlamos, Kim Weston Arnold – Christian Dior, Valentino, Chloe

Alex Jones

Images: Vogue Runway

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