Unearthing GAIA: The Borderless World of Ancestral Whispers

Hannah Williams takes us on a deeper journey into the Ancestral Whispers scene from LRFS26

Ancestral Whispers: the opening scene to the RAG 2026 fashion show, and a  perfect embodiment of the extremely talented Nia Southworth’s vision. The show’s  theme this year was GAIA: An Earthly Soul – it explores the concept of biophilia,  otherwise known as humanity’s innate connection to nature. As such, Ancestral  Whispers must be understood as more than extremely well-made clothes and funky  makeup – it is a return to our history. The show as a whole left me in a liminal space, a  dream-like haze between togetherness and individuality, but particularly the Ancestral  Whispers scene. Reflection, community, longing, anonymity – this scene felt like Billy  Joel’s Piano Man to me, a reprieve from life in a manufactured moment of transitory  intimacy.  

But, before I get too existential, what does Ancestral Whispers actually mean?  The creative team have described this scene as an exploration of “a fluid, borderless  world where life is carried in rhythm, spirit, and light”. Further, it is a celebration of “our  innate desire to connect love; to feel and to connect with people”. Ultimately, it looks  beyond the “societal boundaries” of contemporary life, instead looking within, to  applaud joy and harmony. As such, social diversity is fundamental to this scene: the  garments are dynamic and genderless, as “we are all at one”.  

These themes manifest themselves beautifully in the creation of each look.  Colour is particularly instrumental in creating this vision – the lights are soft, warm, and  low, and the models are adorned in deep, neutral tones. Mahogany, burnt orange,  amber, ochre, sepia, umber, and more comfort the eye, seamlessly integrating Gaia’s  warmth to human connection. The silhouettes function to embellish “the freedom felt in  this space”; while some are more structured, almost medieval, others flow softly,  curved and seamless. They all appear exaggeratedly wide and loose, speaking to the  soothing, imperfect arcs found in nature.  

I think the use of ‘Whispers’ is key here; soft skin under soft strings, the looks are  quiet, almost tranquil. They show natural order, and require no commotion to express  their message. The fabrics used are intricately embroidered, using almost-liquid  boundaries to weave together colour and shape. Many outfits show skin peeking  through, which, for me, is a beautiful way of expressing that our bodies are not  inherently sexual; they simply are. Like our ancestors, the models walk fluidly with  confidence and serenity, unbothered by how the world may perceive them.  

I was actually lucky enough this year to be behind the scenes of the RAG fashion  show, actualising the iconic makeup looks designed by the one and only Reneta  Karaskova. For this reason, it didn’t feel right to complete this article without discussing  how the makeup and hair choices further build upon this beautiful theme. With skin left  bare and simplistic, bold liners and earthy shadows stand out on each model. The use  of prominent red strokes and contours creates an almost tribal feeling; together with the  use of animal teeth accessories, we are transported to a world free from the hustle and  bustle of late stage capitalism. A simpler time, a time of community, a time which has  passed – but can be found again.

The hair stylists also were hard at work, creating beautifully lingering braids and  messy updos. Plaits were a central theme in this scene, complementarily simple. The  models’ hair hangs long and free, giving almost a sense that it hadn’t been trimmed or  styled – once again, the audience is immersed in the beauty of natural being. You can  almost imagine the models sat around in a past dependent community, braiding each  other’s hair round a cozy fire. 

A particularly effacious element of this scene was Saskia Roy’s choreography – an “embodied dance performance” closes this glorious scene. Light, airy, and free, the  dancers moved with talent and intimacy. Through “movement and ritualistic intimacies  of shared stories”, a narrative is created which allows the audience to be truly immersed  in the moment, and in life itself. The movements were almost animalistic, allowing a  freedom to move and connect. Humanity’s connection with nature and the earth itself  felt profound here – we truly are earthly souls. 

To wrap up, I wanted to discuss a review I read earlier today on The Tab. One  fragment of Kayleigh Lincoln’s many kind words that really struck me was how she  described the pre-show touch up process. She spoke of how us makeup artists had a  “personal” dynamic with the models, “add[ing] to the connection and community that  the fashion show instils.” As a sappy girl (who quite literally cried watching the whole  scene for the first time), it is so special to me that this sense of human connectivity  shows through. 

I truly hope everyone else who was lucky enough to see the 2026 RAG fashion  show left feeling just a little bit warmer, a little bit lighter, and a little bit more likely to  reach out to your loved ones, just because you can. 

Words by Hannah Williams