The Power of Cloth

Fashion, like most art, is a form of self-expression. By looking at what people wore in the past, we see a reflection of their reality. I find that this perception is often overlooked. Instead, fashion continues to be associated to its negative and contemporary connotations. In honour of its dignity, I want to recognise its history. Don’t get me wrong, I never hope to relive a historical time-period where what I wear, as a woman, dictates the fate of my future. As fascinating as a three-meter-wide gown is, it shouldn’t be the determining factor of my forthcoming partner to ‘choose me as his wife’. Though the ideals of a Victorian society gathering are (thankfully) outdated, there was, nonetheless, a dignifying respect for the individuality of each guest’s wardrobe. Today, those values are not completely gone, still I believe that they are easily forgotten. I recognise that wearing whatever I want is a privilege to its extreme, but I can’t help to envy the historical appreciation for the significance of a textile. At the risk of sounding pretentious, I once read a quote, 

“Cloth has a powerful way of connecting to our core and acting as armour”.

I share this quote, with full pretentious responsibility, in the prospect of inducing hope into what is otherwise a hopeless state of our world. Contemporary British designer, Edward Crutchley, employs diversity into all his creations; like the gowns he made to fit the male body. When discussing his artistry in an interview with Claudia Acott Williams, Crutchley told her,

“I think the world is not becoming a better place. So it’s time to show them what we can do, and to show beauty from our perspective”.

Edward Crutchley

Crutchley’s message is what I want you, as a reader, to take with you from this piece. By honouring the art of fashion, we are recognising its power in driving social change through uncertain times. 

There is one place that, hundreds of years following the Victorian era, that celebrates the influence of fashion like Queen Victoria idolised her jewels. That place being the red carpet, with exceptional examples found at the Met Gala. For instance, in 2021, when the red Met carpet disguised itself in white, congresswoman, Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, wore a stunning gown with the striking red text: ‘Tax the Rich’ on it. Exciting as it is, watching political leaders collaborate with artists to portray their objectives, it is equally inspiring when it occurs in reverse. That same year, actor and producer Dan Levy utilised his status in the industry by honouring the LGBTQ+ community through his memorable and multidimensional piece, made by Jonathan Anderson and Cartier. The gowns from the Met Gala may be intangible, but their arresting messages are certainly not. That being said, dressing with bureaucratic intention does not require the paparazzi to infuse its power. In the past few days, amidst the disquieting state of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, I have seen scarves worn in support of the Gazans. There is undoubtedly a conversation to be had behind the ethics of such a launch, as some may argue against the garments on the grounds of opportunism. However, if profits made by the scarves are used to aid the conflict, my first instinct is to pull a historical parallel with the Suffragette’s Tartan Scarf that was worn in the colours; purple (dignity), white (loyalty), and green (hope), in support of a woman’s right to vote. These are quite drastic endeavours, but effective in proving ‘the power of cloth’. As – very privileged – members of the western world, it is easy to get manipulated by the – very damaging – lure of fast fashion. Therefore, amid our beloved industry’s uncertainty, it is vital to separate the core of fashion from its evil twin sister; fast fashion. 

Now that I have left you with all of my reflections, I say goodbye with distinguished hope. I present to you: three of my favourite fashion observations, that in the most recent of times, represent the empowerment of cloth: 

A joyous Meghan Markle in a romper from Zara, enjoying the creative freedom she has outside of the palace walls. Surely, anything that is styled with poise, and a smile like Markle’s, is certainly an outfit worn well. With that said, it was only recently that the couple crossed the Atlantic and into their new home in California. Not only did their journey break them free of railway strikes and poor weather, but strict stylistic protocol too. This year, Meghan leaned into her outfit at the Invictus Games with a sophisticated approach, but despite that, the romper remains a question against the royal ‘expectations’ of womenswear. Those sets of beliefs only emphasise a sense of strength and resilience through Markle’s clothing; she looks striking, and so does its covert message. 

While Taylor Swift is moving mountains, her fans are busy building one out of colourful friendship bracelets. None of which you live under, if you are familiar with (and I assume that you are) the ‘Swifties’ accessory. The bracelets were made by fans in virtue Taylor Swift’s song, “You’re on Your Own, Kid” from her album Midnights. In her song, Swift sings, “So make the friendship bracelets, take the moment and taste it / You’ve got no reason to be afraid”. These lyrics are what seem to have encouraged ‘swifties’ to get crafty, making their own friendship bracelets that they then trade with other fans at the Eras tour. If this doesn’t emphasise the celebration of creativity, community, and ‘cloth’, I don’t know what does.

Before the Barbie movie, I thought that a cue for the hot dog stand at 2 am, outside of my favourite club, was the epitome of togetherness. However, this summer, after the sun set, goosebumps were produced by the gaggle of girls wearing pink outside of the cinema. I think I speak for most women when I say that the sight of a cheerful crowd in pink, taking selfies with the cardboard versions Margot Robbie and Ryan Gosling, made me proud. This ‘trend’ represents something bigger than vibrant colours; it taps into our inner child, bringing forth feelings of innocence and open-mindedness. It is a representation of equality, and serves as a symbol for empowerment [through ‘cloth’].