EUDAIMONIA: Leeds RAG’s raw portrayal of a journey to hope
The much-awaited Leeds RAG fashion show finally took to the stage last Friday, with a range of talented designers, models, stylists and creators coming together to showcase their work whilst honing in on this year’s chosen theme of ‘Eudaimonia’. For those of you not familiar with the term (I was in the same boat as you until Google came to the rescue with a quick definition), Eudaimonia is a Greek word translating to the state or condition of ‘good spirit’, commonly translated as ‘happiness’ or ‘welfare’. Selected by creative directors Joshua Davies and Zuzia Fiedorowicz, this year’s theme was sure to be one which resonated deeply with members of both the show’s team and the audience alike. With the cut-throat nature of the fashion industry being renowned as a breeding ground for an array of mental health issues, including depression, anxiety and eating disorders, it was inspiring to see the topic of mental health being vocalized in a context often devoid of such understanding. Using fashion as a means of encouraging diversity rather than conformity, this year’s show provided a raw portrayal of the often-censored topic of mental health, invoking a sense of unity between the shared experiences of those on stage and those spectating.
Accompanied by some trippy visuals supplied by graphic designer Akam and a range of sounds including a vibrant performance from a live band with powerful vocals from Tiger Edison, this year’s show was certainly an evocative and unforgettable spectacle. Split into five distinct scenes, the show embodied a journey through five states of emotion that someone might experience as they struggle with, and later seek help for their mental health. Each of the scenes emanated a unique sense of style, with models going above and beyond the conventional ‘moody runway’ look as they accompanied their strut with various theatrical gestures. As someone who has struggled with their mental health in the past, I did initially question the shows portrayal of a mental health journey as a linear progression through five distinct states of emotion. Those struggling with their mental health can experience a range of conflicting emotions on a daily basis, often retreating back into a state of hopelessness following periods of sustained recovery. That being said, this optimism served to invoke a sense of hope in members of the audience and the show’s team who are actively struggling with their mental health. In bringing these themes to the stage, the show has contributed to the growing climate of de-stigmatisation that has encouraged people to vocalise their struggles with mental health, facilitating in the building of a community of individuals who no longer suffer in silence.
Photo Credits: @frankieccleston
A range of designers were recruited to supply intricate garments that symbolized each of the show’s themes, resulting in a diverse array of eccentric outfits which sought to embrace diversity and embody the temperamentality of the human condition. Notable works include that of Eleanor Wylde’s, who’s circle dress took to the stage in scene four, ‘Found’. A creative pattern cutting project, Wylde’s circle dress was created from circle pattern pieces only, effectively embodying the theme of ‘Found’ in its defiance of basic pattern block methods. Keen to learn more about the designers who contributed to the show, I interviewed Harriet Hooper, a fashion designer at Leeds Arts University, who resonated deeply with this year’s theme of Eudaimonia.
FE: First and foremost, what did you think of the show overall? What was the best thing about being a part of the Leeds RAG fashion show this year?
HH: The topic of mental health is one that is very important to me and watching the show was an emotional experience as I understood each emotion deeply. I think the progression between each scene worked really well. The music fit so perfectly and helped contribute to the powerful feelings evoked by each scene.
FE: What does a ‘well-lived life’ or ‘Eudaimonia’ mean or look like to you as a fashion designer?
HH: A ‘well-lived’ life is subject to each individual and I think it’s important to remember that. Some people prefer to live their lives differently to others (…) and I feel that if we are all accepting of that then it will help everybody to live their life the way they want. The fashion industry is so fast paced and cutthroat, but I try to remind myself that it’s important to take a step back from this and focus more on the things about fashion that make me happy.
FE: What provides you with a sense of happiness and well-being in day-to-day life? Does fashion play a big part in this? Does it help you to achieve a sense of Eudaimonia?
HH: I’m lucky that I thrive off creating garments, it brings me happiness to see the execution of an idea that I once had in my head. Creating garments brings me happiness as it is art for the body, it is my escape when I’m having a bad day as you can play music, draft patterns and sow away. So yes, it does bring me a sense of Eudaimonia.
FE: How do you think that fashion can be used as a force for social change, especially with regards to the de-stigmatization of mental health issues?
HH: Runway shows that are specified towards mental health are so important and it’s great that we are seeing them happening more and more. This can play a crucial role in facilitating social change considering how influential fashion is.
FE: Mental health is a prominent theme in this year’s show, is this a theme that resonates deeply with you? Has fashion in any way ever helped you overcome your own struggles with mental health?
HH: Creating clothes has taken my mind off negative thoughts and has allowed me to escape and create. Garment construction and creation is a key part of my life and allows me space to reflect on things I might not have had time for in a busy day. Creating clothes also brings structure to my life.
FE: Fashion can be used as a means of self-expression, is this something you engage with on a daily basis when choosing what to wear?
HH: I wear a lot of oversized clothes. The garment I created for the anger scene was very wide legged, I achieved this by doing two pleats down the front and back of trousers. I like wearing and creating oversized clothes because your body shape is not perceived in one way or another and you are more focused on the person rather than what their body looks like.
With all of the proceeds going to the charities Young Minds and Leeds Survivor Led Crisis Centre, those involved in this year’s show utilized their creative talents to make a positive social change. The charities were carefully selected on account of their relevance to this year’s theme, with Young Minds seeking to ensure that young people have access to the mental health support that they need and Leeds Survivor Led Crisis centre committing to providing face-to-face services for those experiencing an acute mental health crisis. It’s exciting to see where the emerging generation of fashion creators are headed, tackling important issues in their work and diversifying the fashion industry in ways that were once deemed inconceivable.
