‘De-gendering’ fashion: non binary clothing today
Clothing: pieces of fabric, which cover our bodies for warmth, ‘modesty’ and a way to express ourselves. Fairly simple, right? Surely not another part of our lives that is deeply entrenched in the age-long gender binary that continues to govern the way we live? Oh it so is, folks, it so is. Clothes have been divided into ‘women’s’ and ‘men’s’ for hundreds of years, especially since the birth of the ‘department store’ format which separated clothing in this way, reflecting the segregation between men and women. This way of displaying, and policing clothing categories has slowly begun to be eradicated, and in the past few years, through celebrity culture as well as designers, the gender binary has started to be deconstructed and diluted within the context of fashion.
Harris Reed, a breakout designer from Central Saint Martins, is one of the names at the forefront of ‘de-gendering’ fashion, his whole brand infused with a fluidity and freedom: an ethos which he is highly vocal about. Having been recruited by stylist Harry Lambert whilst still studying at CSM, Reed created some of the most iconic looks from Harry Styles’ 2018 Live on Tour, infusing the pop star’s wardrobe with billowing, frilled glam rock blouses and slinky flares: his outfits accommodating Styles’ active, prancy performing style.Since graduating, Reed has collaborated with MAC Cosmetics on its first gender-fluid makeup collection, created a ‘fluid basics’ side brand, dressed Iman for the Met Gala, and is working on his second collection for the upcoming fashion month. “I’d like to eradicate the categories of menswear and womenswear” Reed told Harper’s Bazaar: “Fluidity offers an alternate way of being, crossing and merging masculine and feminine.”
Speaking to writer and performance artist Alok Menon at a Business of Fashion panel on gender fluid fashion, Reed discussed the infuriating way in which major companies operate when working with him and other gender fluid designers, and the disparity between enthusiasm and action: ‘We don’t really know how to do this fluid thing. We don’t really know how to make this work’, Reed said, reenacting a company’s response having been initially supportive of his vision, and these limitations being to do with ‘software issues’, and it being ‘difficult’ to remove a binary option on a website. This bizarre disconnect demonstrates the vast array of entrenched barriers within this world that are preventing designers such as Reed and their ethos from gaining traction as quickly as they might.
Image Credits: @Harris_reed on Instagram
In addition to figures implementing change within the fashion industry, the ‘de-gendering’ of fashion does also rely on representation outside of the somewhat exclusive and elitist fashion world, through actors, singers, and figures that the public will encounter visually. Italian rock band Måneskin, (winners of Eurovision 2021) embrace a unique androdynous style, often unanimously clad in bedazzled Gucci suits and leather harnesses. Harry Styles famously graced the cover of American Vogue in late 2020 in a frilled ball gown, and Jonah Hill and girlfriend Sarah Brady made their red-carpet debut in December, wearing identical sky-blue suits and loafers.
In addition to figures implementing change within the fashion industry, the ‘de-gendering’ of fashion does also rely on representation outside of the somewhat exclusive and elitist fashion world, through actors, singers, and figures that the public will encounter visually. Italian rock band Måneskin, (winners of Eurovision 2021) embrace a unique androdynous style, often unanimously clad in bedazzled Gucci suits and leather harnesses. Harry Styles famously graced the cover of American Vogue in late 2020 in a frilled ball gown, and Jonah Hill and girlfriend Sarah Brady made their red-carpet debut in December, wearing identical sky-blue suits and loafers.
Image Credits: @jonahhill on Instagram
Although there certainly is still a gap between social media ‘moments’, flash in the pan representation, and long term change being implemented across the fashion industry, representation of any kind is crucial to the deconstructing of the strict, gendered categories within fashion, as it is proving to be a long and intricate process.
In addition, fashion and clothing does play a hugely significant role within the broader realm of gender: garments act as an empowering tool and way in which people explore their identities and express themselves. In the larger conversation surrounding progression away from binary representation with regards to gender, accessibility to a range of clothing, both in shops and online that are not strictly presented in ‘men’ and ‘women’s’ sections is crucial.
